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My Holidays in Northern Ireland Now we are here in Northern Ireland! It is summer and we are going to stay here for 10 days.
We decided not to stay in a permanent place in a small hotel but rented a car and travelled around.
The weather is fickle and unpreclictable but the rain keeps the land a magical emerald green and, when the wind blows the clouds away to sea, the sky like the mountains is blue. The air is clean — and so sweet that you will want to open the car windows to let the breezes in.
Because Northern Ireland is only 5,500 square miles in area — about the size of Yorkshire or Connecticut — you can see most of the main attractions in a week without clocking up more than 500 miles. Two major cities, the capital Belfast and Londonderry were just waiting to be explored.
First was Belfast. This beautiful Victorian city had stacks of things to do, too— we checked out where great ships like the Titanic had been built, inarvelled at the architecturally impressive City Hall and
P
Queens University, we immersed ourselves in Belfast's sparkling city life with
I hip boutiques and smart stores.
Then comes county Londonderry. Massive 17th-century city walls and 'singing ~ pubs' are famous features of Derry/Londonderry, on the River Foyle. The Tower Museum sensitively i nterpreted tile city's turbulent history, while the Fifth Province celebrated Irish Celtic culture. At the Foyle Valley Railway Centre we focused on the region's former narrow- gauge network. The wild Sperrin Mountains lie south of Limavady, near which is the beautiful Roe Valley Country Park, where we visited Ulster's first hydroelectric power station, the Power Ilouse. At Draperstown to the east„ the Ulster Plantation Centre told us the story of a notorious aspect of Irish history.
Most, people visiting llave heard of the varying allegiances of its people. How-
I ever, to a traveller the people of Northern I Ireland are friendly and warm towards visitors. You get the feeling that the peo- I pie know the allegiances of each other, but i to a traveller it can be hard to ascertain. I The Irish — Be they kings, or poets, or farmers, they' re a people of great worth, l they keep company with the angels, and ' bring a bit of heaven here to earth. Leprei chauns, castles, good luck and laughter.
Lullabies, dreams and love ever after. Poems and songs with pipes and drums. A thousand welcomes when anyone comes...
That's the Irish for you!"
Traditional food is alive and well in Northern Ireland. Most traditional dishes have their roots in potatoes and bread, and farming families used to eat at least one Ulster Fry a day.
Nowadays that pleasure is saved for the weekend, maybe indulging in a sausage sorla or a bacon bap on a week day. lIow- ever, no visit to Northern Ireland would bc complete without experiencing an Ulst,er Fry!
The Ulster Fry is distinguished by its griddle breads — soda bread and potato farls, fried until crisp and golden. Sometimes it comes with another uniquely Northern Irish speciality, vegetable roll — slices of peppery minced beef, flavoured with fresh leek, carrot and onion.
Bacon, sausages, an egg, a tomato and maybe some mushrooms complete the picture — — not to nlention lashings of tea and toast.
Solne local specialities included:
Champ — a delicious comfort food dish of potatoes luashed with lots of butter, wal'nl nlllk anYI choppcll spl lug Colons ol', as wl call then1, scallions. We also love our spuds fried, roast, baker) slid simply bollell ln thclr "jilickcts ' to hc pcclcll cel"- emoniously at the table.
Irish Stew — a hearty casserole traditionally made with nleat, potatoes, cal rota and onions. Thc Illster var!- ety is ma(lc wiith steak piec(ls instead of lamb — cooked to a peppery slush and often served with thick slices of buttered bread.
Dulsc — a salty, seaweed snack, originally h'lrv{ stcd by flshcl nlcn to upplenlpnt
their income when fishing was slack. Found at markets, and in some bars, it is I also used in Robert Ditty*s sesame seed '
I and dulse oatcakes, and in the Causeway I Cheese Company's cheese, and it can add ' a very pleasant saline edge to a loaf of I soda bread.
Lough Neagh eel — traditionally eaten I at Hallowe'en and served fried in chunks I
I with a white onion sauce, also often I smoked and served as a starter.
Potato bread farl — a dense, earthy flat I bread, made wit,h potatoes, flour, and ' buttermilk and cooked on a griddle. This bread is the heart of every Ulster Fry and '
I a must-buy foodie souvenir.
Soda bread farl — first baked in 19th cen-
I tury Ireland when local peasants added baking soda to help the dough rise. The I result is thick„chunky soft bread with fluffy consistency that is best served fried as part of the Lllster Fry, or toasted I with a big dollop of butter. They are also ' the base for popular Paddy's Pizzas.
Wheaten bread — a healthy brown bread made with whole wheat, flour and delicious toasted with melted cheese or buttered and served with a big bowl of steaining broth.
Yellow man — a crunchy golden confectionery often confused with honeycomb, but similar in texture, sold at fairs and markets.
Vegetable roli — well actually its thick slices of 8 fatty lneat from the trimmings of brisket, and rib with seasoning of f resh vegeta blc.'„usually celery, leek, carrot and onion. It, was traditionally pal"t, of. an Ulstel Fl'y but Bow more oiten served at lunch or ilinner with nlashed potato oi' cl'lamp, and lnasheil swede oi' turnip.
Steal; 4 Guinness pica — Steak gi Guinness pie is the pub grub of choicr in inost parts of Ulster. Thie nleat is cooked first„ and then 8 pic dish is lined with puff pastry. filled with the beef and then topped with the pastry. It ditfcrs from the UK pastry-topped pie, in that the pastry ls bot,h oi'I top anil undel'neath, the meat. Butchers sell 8 wide range of piss with fillings such as mince and onion or chicken and ham.
Ardglass potted herring — not to be confused with roll mops, this dish was created in the days when herrings were plentiful. Hach family has its own secret variation, but often they are wrapped around onion, bay leaf and all-spice 'with a 50:50 mixture of malt vinegar and water, topperl with breadcrumbs and baked. Traditional butcher's sausages — i,he fine-textured sausage typical in Northern Ireland is very distinct from continental styles, and each butcher has his own unique family recipe, usually made with natural casings and hand-linked.
Beef sausages seem peculiar to the north of Ireland, although they are also found in Scotland.
Pasties — this comforting mixture of sausage meat, onions, mashed potato is shaped like a burger, aml always spiced with loads and loads of black pepper. You can order them plain, battered (the chip shop favourite) or coated with golden breadcrumbs.
Boxiy — — predominately found in County Fermanagh, Boxty is a weighty, starchy potato cake made with 50: 50 mix of cooked mashed potatoes and grated, strained, raw potato. The most connnon variety is boiled boxty„also known as hurley, a large round loaf which is boiled whole for several hours, allowed to rest and then sliced and frierl, often with bacon.
Buttermilk — a by-product of churning I butter on the farm, buttermilk is responsible for i,he distinctive flavour and texture of Northern Irish breads — soda farls, potato bread, pancakes and wheaten bread.
These were great summer holi, days, the best wc have ever had!
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